Monday 14th March - Well it is not often that the words 'a lovely stroll' and 'TeAraroa trail' are in the same sentance, but today was honestly that. I had booked two nights at the Frankton Camping ground, so left my pack behind for the day and finished off the 8km of this section around the lake and through to the Queenstown shops.
Was a lovely walk around the lake and as Queenstown gradually came into view I couldn't believe how much it had expanded since my last visit nearly 20 years ago. Managed to find some clothes to wear to the funeral and enjoyed a good lunch and dinner in town before catching the bus back to Frankton. Went over to the supermarket and got groceries ready for when I get back on the trail too. The next section starts across the water at the Greenstone trail head. Walkers need to make transport arrangements to get over there so I've organised a shuttle that will pick me up on Thursday from the airport once I get back from the funeral and take me straight to the start of the next section. Will also leave the bulk of my gear and groceries in one of the airport lockers ready for when I get back. Feeling sorted.
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Sunday 13th March - Last night I heard a car pull up beside my tent and a voice that sounded familiar. It sounded so much like a Te Araroa walker, John Williamson that I had met in the North Island and who had stayed at our place over Christmas, but thought it couldn't be him as I heard that he finished the trail in Bluff last week. Popped out of the tent to check it out and it was actually John plus another Te Araroa walker who had also finished the trail. They were doing some tourist driving and stops to check out the West Coast and other places they enjoyed, but didn't spend time in like Arrowtown. He was just as surprised to see me and such a coincidence. Was great to chat a bit last night, then had breakfast with them both this morning to have a proper catch up. They headed off after breakfast and I spent time booking flights for the week ahead, then headed off to walk the Wakatipu Track. Such a lovely walk! Basically you follow the Queenstown Cycle track through Arrowtown, the Millbrook Golf Resort, the Shotover river footbridge and into Frankton past the Airport. There is an unsightly section that takes you through Queenstown's waste and industrial area, but I guess every town has its dirty secrets! Booked into the Frankton Campground for two nights as will finish the walk to Queenstown tomorrow without my pack, then also will be easy walking distance to the airport on Tuesday. Feels weird being back in civilisation and seeing a Mitre 10 when approaching Frankton. Sunday 13th March - Last night I heard a car pull up beside my tent and a voice that sounded familiar. It sounded so much like a Te Araroa walker, John Williamson that I had met in the North Island and who had stayed at our place over Christmas, but thought it couldn't be him as I heard that he finished the trail in Bluff last week. Popped out of the tent to check it out and it was actually John plus another Te Araroa walker who had also finished the trail. They were doing some tourist driving and stops to check out the West Coast and other places they enjoyed, but didn't spend time in like Arrowtown. He was just as surprised to see me and such a coincidence. Was great to chat a bit last night, then had breakfast with them both this morning to have a proper catch up.
They headed off after breakfast and I spent time booking flights for the week ahead, then headed off to walk the Wakatipu Track. Such a lovely walk! Basically you follow the Queenstown Cycle track through Arrowtown, the Millbrook Golf Resort, the Shotover river footbridge and into Frankton past the Airport. There is an unsightly section that takes you through Queenstown's waste and industrial area, but I guess every town has its dirty secrets! Booked into the Frankton Campground for two nights as will finish the walk to Queenstown tomorrow without my pack, then also will be easy walking distance to the airport on Tuesday. Saturday 12th March - Getting a whiff of my clothes this morning I decided it was definately time for a rest and laundry day so sorted out another camping night in Arrowtown.
The upbeat morning then changed as got news through that my Aunty Colleen, Mum's sister had died. Was hard hitting as September just feels like yesterday when we buried Mum. The rest of the day was a bit of a scramble where I worked out how to get myself up north for the funeral later in the week and then what the return date to Te Araroa would be. Going into town and eating lunch plus a few afternoon wines helped get the plan in place. If there is one thing I have discovered from walking Te Araroa it is that there is always a way you can climb obstacles - either physical or emotional, and this knowledge gives great strength when feeling weak. Grateful that I am also very close to Queenstown, so transport options are endless. Friday 11th March - Cold start to the day today. Definately an Autumn feel to the days now. Headed off and said farewells to the hut crew.
Having left Roses Hut and heading up and over Roses Saddle I was thinking a lot about my niece Rose Brennan today. Hi Rose!! One day you might come walking with Aunty. Once over Roses Saddle it was down to the river and then walking downstream mainly in the water for the afternoon to Macetown. Before getting to the river there was a turquoise coloured digger that I thought my nephew James Brennan would've loved... photo attached for you James if you can spy it. Had lunch along the way with another Kiwi guy who was doing a few days tramping on the way through to Queenstown. The river walking was lovely and the riverstones so different to everything north of here - multicoloured and vibrant. Had a break near Macetown then continued up the river and up the next saddle over Big Hill and down to Arrowtown. The view walking down was just gorgeous and it really helped with motivation to get to Arrowtown. Such a pretty evening walk getting closer to the town. Got to the campground which is perfectly located to town. Managed to still get a steak dinner after 9-30pm once I had set up the tent and showered - wow I must be back in civilisation again. Thursday 10th March - Happy Birthday Joseph!!
The storm alarm went off on my watch in the night which was annoying but a good indicator something was on its way. Once morning arrived everyone had breakfast and packed up ready to go with one guy heading off before the rest of us. Within the half hour rain, thunder and lightening stormed in, so it was nice to sit back down again in the warm hut and have another round of breakfast. By 12-30 the day completely changed again and it was blue skies and a bit of wind. So pack up round two and this time off on the track which had been noted as the hardest section of this particular track. There are two steep climbs and descents to get to Roses Hut. Yes it is more challenging than the earlier part of the Motatapu trail, and was tricky with the wind up on the top too, but I did find the climb up to Stodys Hut on the Breast Hill harder, as at least this track had something to hold onto when climbing and also a good gripping foot track. The views back over to Lake Wanaka were lovely and it was hard to believe that the weather had been so terrible in the first part of the day. At the hut a couple of other new walkers were already there, including a guy who had already finished walking Te Araroa through to Bluff but decided to go back to this track to wait for friends coming through as a surprise. Lovely to hear all his stories and what it is like to finish at Bluff. Wednesday 9th March - Interrupted sleep last night as a possum decided to start running up and around the decking area of the hut. Erin decided to take a broom to it and scare it away and we all got up to watch the action. Finally the possum gave in and scuttled off.
Todays walking was more demanding than yesterday but once again the track was well formed and well marked so was not difficult to follow. Walked up Jack Hall Saddle which was 1275m and thought of Jack Gawith the whole way. The Highland Creek Hut was great to see in the lower valley when you turned a corner. Tuesday 8th March - Glendhu Campground was a great spot and was so tempting to stay on, but the Motatapu Track was calling!! Headed off and walked the first stretch from the campground a few kms further up the road to the start of the Motatapu track. The track crosses the land that Shania Twain had brought a while back but I'm not sure that she still has ownership after her marriage breakup. Part of the deal with the land purchase at the time was that the track was to be established for public use - and three new huts were built to support this too. A great initiative and some beautiful Cental Otago landscape for all to enjoy.
The starting track was a lovely mix of farm land, beech forest and tussock hills. Once again, sidling was also a requirement too. The track is clear and well formed though, so not too hard. Was lovely to see the nice new-ish Fern Burn Hut in the distance at the bottom of a huge mountain. Everything is all very brown again. Some overnight trampers were already there in the hut too. A bonus was catching up with one of the other Te Araroa walkers from the Richmond range again - Erin. She had been doing a couple of side trips, so was great to hear her news. Monday 7th March - Spent the morning sorting out my gear, replacing broken poles and clothing, and enjoying having ready access to food. My boots are getting close to the end of their life but the shops didn't have my size for replacements so will hold out to Queenstown to change them.
Lots of activity around town as there was a big cycling event on plus they are also setting up for the A&P Show ready for next weekend. It got a little cooler and overcast later this afternoon so was perfect for the 3 hour walk around to Glendhu Bay. Once again the track was very well maintained for walking and cycling and very scenic. The track goes around the Wanaka Lake edge so was surprised to see a vineyard on the way with a very tempting 'Tastings this way' sign. Also further around there were some gorgeous little sandy bays, so was an interesting wee walk. Started spitting with rain when I was approaching the campground so got one of the cabins to stay in tonight. I will be starting the Motatapu Alpine track tomorrow that will take about 4 days and leads into Arrowtown. Sunday 6th March - Bev cooked up a magnificent breakfast this morning, so I had a great start to the day. Did my washing and with the wind it still around it was dry shortly afterwards ready to be worn again. Before heading off, Bev took my photo on her front lawn ( this is her thing she likes to for all her guests) so I got the standard shot and was on my way again. The walk through to Wanaka was such a delight and a wonderful way to spent a Sunday afteroon. It starts with the Hawea River Track then connects to the Outlet track that follows the Clutha River, through to the Lake then Beacon Point, then onto Bremner Bay and into Wanaka. It is a cycle track too, so lots of people out and about being a Sunday. I had prebooked a room at the YHA hostel so once checked in it was dinner and bed. A great day. Sunday 6th March - Bev cooked up a magnificent breakfast this morning, so I had a great start to the day. Did my washing and with the wind it still around it was dry shortly afterwards ready to be worn again. Before heading off, Bev took my photo on her front lawn ( this is her thing she likes to for all her guests) so I got the standard shot and was on my way again.
The walk through to Wanaka was such a delight and a wonderful way to spent a Sunday afteroon. It starts with the Hawea River Track then connects to the Outlet track that follows the Clutha River, through to the Lake then Beacon Point, then onto Bremner Bay and into Wanaka. It is a cycle track too, so lots of people out and about being a Sunday. I had prebooked a room at the YHA hostel so once checked in it was dinner and bed. A great day. Saturday 5th March - Headed off from the hut and found the track way easier than yesterday. Looked to be a four wheel drive farm track all the way through to the lookout point that greets you with the most stunning views of Lake Hawea and surrounding mountain ranges. The temperaure really dropped and was very blustery so needed Balaclava hat and gloves on ( well it was socks on my hands as these were the first thing I grabbed out of my front pouches). Views were absolutely fantanstic and a real lift after yesterday's slog.
Made my way down the ridge to Pakituhi Hut for a lunch stop which is a beautiful brand new hut like Top Timaru hut. There were a few weekend trampers around being a Saturday, so was nice to leave them to it and make my way down to Lake Hawea for the night. The track down from Pakituhi Hut is very steep but the bulk of it is down a fenceline so there was always something to hold onto given the conditions were still very blustery. I'm also down to one pole so having something to hold onto on my left side was great. Views over Lake Hawea all the way down the 950m drop, so this made the steep, blustery descent not a bad afternoon's effort. Once at the bottom, it was then a walk around the lake into the Lake Hawea Village to find a room for the night. Tried for accomodation at the Hotel, but they were full due a local 21st party. The next thing I know, the staff behind the bar went and asked a local woman if she could put me up for the night - she was in the hotel having her Saturday glass of wine. Apparently she has recently started taking people in and offering bed and breakfast when there is overflow of people from the hotel. Turned out really well, I had a glass of wine with her and another guy who was going to stay at her place too, then we got takeaways and went back to watch Coronation Street - perfect. Also got the run down on what has been happening on Coro since I've been away walking. A lovely relaxed night in a beautiful home overlooking the lake - such a treat. |