Friday 26th February - More gravel road walking up Braemar Rd today then on to the Alps 2 Ocean cycle track on gravel road too. What breathtaking scenery on the way. I had Mt Cook on my shoulder for most of the day then it switched to Mt Cook, the surrounding mountains plus Lake Pukaki. Just beautiful. Very windy and walked in a head wind most of the day which has been tiring.
Stopped for the day at a lovely spot by the Lake that even has a toilet. I am the only one here tonight so feels like my own private campground. Also getting cell phone coverage so all boxes are getting ticked with tonights accomodation stop.
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Thursday 25th February - Glorious morning in Tekapo and nice to enjoy the campground, wash clothes, shower etc. It was so hot this morning that it only took an hour to wash and line dry my walking clothes ready to go again.
Decided to have a picnic lunch by the little Good Shepherd Church and was a nice relax before hitting the road again towards Lake Pukaki. Got to the cute 2 bunk Irishman Creek Roadman's Hut, also known as the 'Telephone Hut', which is literally on the side of the very long Braemar Road. Andrea and Mario were there when I arrived too and shortly afterwards another walker Paul arrived. I pitched the tent in the shelter of the hut from the wind and had a most excellent sleep. I think the wind swirling sounds reminded me of Wellington so lulled me off to sleep. Wednesday 24th February - Not much chatter this morning in the hut after all the snoring last night and everyone was up and away early.
The walking was straight forward today but did involve a steep climb up to where one of the ski fields is and the reward was the view of the mountains again and a brief peak at Mt Cook in between clouds not that my photos do the mountain ranges any justice. The trail then headed down to Lake Tekapo on a 13km easy walking track. Beautiful looking at the lake but felt like I was never going to get there as the lake felt so close. From there it was gravel road walking around the lake into Tekapo Village for another 15km. A 36km day in all so once I had the tent up at the Tekapo Campground it was a big steak dinner and wine in the village. A funny sign on one of the walls in the village cracked me up. Have attached the photo of it. Tekapo is packed out which surprised me for a Wednesday. I guess this is the beginning of seeing lots of tourists around. I've never seen so many campervans parked up like that at the campground. Tuesday 23rd February - Wow what a magnificent day of walking and views to die for. Very hard to capture the scale of beauty and majestic scenery of the day so the photos dont do justice to the views. Climbed Stag Saddle to the highest point of Te Araroa at 1925 metres and met up with Andrea and Mario again there so was great to take photos for each other. We then carried on to the ridge together rather than descending down the other side of the saddle. Weather was perfect for the ridge and we stopped there for lunch hoping the clouds would lift and reveal Mt Cook - but no just got to see the surrounding ranges. Great views over to Lake Tekapo as we walked down the ridge too. Once again the photos dont really capture the vast landscape.
Made our way down to Camp Stream hut. I took the valley path and the others took the 4 wheel drive track which I think was the better way to go as my path following the poles was boggy and more difficult tussock. Met some North-bound Te Araroa walkers at the hut who moved on to head to the ridge and then later in the night two mountain bikers arrived who had biked some of the Two Thumbs trail. Apart from the 4 wheel drive section, I dont know how they biked some parts but they said they did carry their bikes through some of the sections too. Lots of snoring in the hut that night so not much sleep!! Think it was the worst snoring from those guys that I've heard in the huts since starting Te Araroa. Monday 22nd February - Lots of activity this morning as people got themselves sorted ready for the day of walking ahead and gradually peeled off further up the hills. Quite a climb up again to about 1500 metres and a lovely scenic backdrop. Then it was tramping through tall tussock grass and trying to see where the next marker pole was while trying not to fall into holes between the huge tussocks or trip up over them. The weather was superb again and with the stream crossings it was nice to cool off. Stopped off for lunch at Stone Hut and one of the other couples from last night - Andrea and Mario from Switzerland where there having a break too. Most of the others from last night were on a mission to get through this Two Thumbs track as soon as possible so probably wont see them again.
Carried on through to Royal Hut which is called that because it is thought Prince Charles and Princess Anne visited there many years ago as children. The hut is not as flash as its name suggests and is another of the old historic tin mustering huts in the area. Plenty of room as only the three of us stayed. There was a rat or a bird making lots of rattling noises as soon as the lights were out which made getting to sleep difficult. One of the walkers, Andrea even got up to see if she could see anything outside on the roof, but nothing to be seen to chase away. Sunday 21st February - Headed off from the cottage at Mesopotamia Station and made my way to the start of the Two Thumbs track. The Bush Stream had more water than usual with the recent rain but was still crossable throughout the day. The last river crossing to get to the hut was the highest at thigh level but still ok if you chose the right crossing spot. Quite the climb uphill at the end to get to the Crooked Spur Hut too.
A very hot day today so took lots of breaks when any shade was available. Another couple were already at the hut when I got there but they had stayed there last night too as had not been feeling well. As the afternoon and early evening progressed more people - all Te Araroa walkers - kept arriving so was quite a lively evening. One guy lost his footing at the last river crossing and was washed down a few metres so turned up to the hut absolutley saturated. Some couples chose to tent outside as was a lovely evening so there were still empty bunks in the hut even though 11 of us were at the hut. Saturday 20th February - Quite the day for an adventure!! Headed off from the Mt Potts Lodge ( or wonderful haven as I now have come to regard it) and was now on the look out for a lift around the flooded Rangitata River. The farmer of Mt Potts Station confirmed the river had swollen to 10 times usual volume with the recent rain so that made the river absolutely impassable. Next option was to hitch a lift for 120+ kilometers around the river to the start of the next trail head at Mesopotamia Station (farm). I was happy for the local farmers that rain had fallen to break the long hot summer, but also was a bummer I now had to sort out alternative options to cross the river. Such is life on the Te Araroa!!!
Walking up the very quiet road in search of a hitch (free ride) I met up with another Te Araroa walker who was very frustrated and upset with the situation of a swollen river and no traffic on the country rural road to get a lift with. It surprised me he was so angry as it was well documented that it was to be expected not to be able to cross the river. I tried to reassure him that all would be ok and luckily within 5 minutes a young couple picked us up in their Ute (van/truck with an open back tray). There was only space on the very back of the Ute and we also needed the back flap of the Ute tray open too. We did have to hold on tight for our lives but was well worth the ride through to Mt Somers. Totally illegal to be travelling this way of course - but when you are in the back country of NZ it was all OK and totally inspired the guy I met to carry on with the trail and reassured him that life was an adventure. Also I must add the views were amazing as we were travelling through some Lord of the Rings movie backgrounds. If I had a hand free I would've taken a photo, but both hands were making sure I was secure on the back of the Ute!!!! From Mt Somers it was another lift with another driver over the Rangitata River, then I walked about 15km to the Peel Forest Store and Cafe for a late lunch. From there I managed to pick up a ride through to Mesopotamia Station (farm) with a guy looking for a new trout fishing spot, and I stayed there the night in one of their cottages. Fantastic remote location close to the start of the next trail head - the Two Thumbs Track. What a day and yet another adventure on the Te Araroa trail. Friday 19th February - Woke to continued rain and also a bit of snow on the nearby peaks. No wonder it was cold yesterday. Decided to stay another day at Mt Potts lodge as had picked up a good book 'I Dreamed of Africa' to read from one of the other huts and was nice to bunk down for a day, get the clothes washed and rest up for the next stretch. The Lodge managers also pulled out some steak and vege from the freezer for me, so I cooked up a feast for dinner and was a great end to a relaxed day.
Thursday 18th February - What a night last night!! Thunder, lightning and a splatter of rain on repeat all night. Being surrounded by hills, the thunder just echoed around the basin I was camped in. Very spectacular and not much sleep.
Finally packed up this morning and moved on. No rain to start with, then after lunch it started to gently rain, not heavy, but persistently. Very wet rain if that makes sense. Made for a slippery descent down the hills towards the Potts River. Wasn't sure if I was going to be able to make it to the road end when I looked down at the Potts River but when I got down the hill to the river it was not an issue and not flowing to the left where I was so I bearly got my feet wet. The Rangitata was another issue. Could already tell that it was definately not going to be crossable so started up the road to stay at the Mt Potts Lodge. Excellent decision as the accomodation was great. Stayed in one of the bunkrooms which meant I had my own room with a double bed bunk in it. The surroundng views were cloudy but still great. The bar was open so had some wine, watched the news for the first time in a wee while, had dinner and had a great sleep!! Wednesday 17th February - Woke up to rain pitter patter on the roof - excellent an excuse not to move too fast out of the hut. By 11am it had stopped so no more excuses to stay - moved on and walked through to Manuka Hut for a snack stop then on to the beginning of the Clearwater track. Felt like I could have been in an African Sahara landscape as was a large barren basin surrounded by brown hills with tussock grass and not much else apart from horrible speargrass that rips your legs to shreds - loving my gaiters for some lower leg protection at least.
Pitched the tent and settled in for the night in the middle of nowhere, but at least within the first few kms of the Clearwater track as a start for tomorrow. |