17th-20th April (Day 179-182 away from home)
Met up with Richard the shuttle driver and we headed off on the road towards Taumarunui. This was a couple of hours drive so luckily we found a few topics of interest to talk about along the way to fill in the time. I got Richard to drop me off at the spot I got picked up from back in December just outside of the Pureroa forest park. He couldn't believe that I was determined to be at exactly the same spot that I had stopped at last year. He also confirmed I was his most random passenger and the most remote drop off that he had driven too. I could tell he wasn't comfortable at leaving me there but assured him everything would be OK and he finally headed off once I had my pack on and had started walking up the road. From there it was about a 30km walk into Taumarunui where I checked into a motel and brought supplies from New World across the road for dinner and the next few days of walking. The next day I started the road walking through to Owhango, called in for a late lunch and then carried on to the start of the 42 Traverse track. Pitched the tent at the start of the track, had dinner and settled in for an early night ready for the next day. Awoke to a absolutely gorgeous sunny day, packed up and commenced the 42 Traverse track which is a four wheel drive track and mountain bike trail. Made good progress through to the afternoon, then later in the day realised that I had made my way to the loop road that takes you back to highway 4 rather than highway 47 as originally planned. I decided to go with it anyway and just walk the extra road walking to National Park. Carried on till dark until I found an empty field and climbed the stile over the fence to pitch my tent under the shelter belt trees away from road view. Was not the most restful of nights as the road was busy with truck traffic and also close to the railway line, so lots of train activity through the night too. I was too excited to sleep anyway as it was going to be my last night on the trail and I had to laugh at my final random sleeping place. Awoke to make an early start and back on the road walking at about 7am. Stopped for a morning tea picnic by the dinosaur structure at Raurimu before heading on through to National Park. Was such a beautiful day and the mountain range was in clear view all the way into National Park against the blue sky. It felt wonderful walking into the villiage, finishing off the loop back to where I was last year and knowing that this was the final section of my Te Araroa adventure. I had officially finished all sections of the trail and it felt great!! Lots of memories of when I was in National Park back inDecember when the visibility was bad and you could not see anything at all. What a difference it was today. I had brunch and soaked in the mountain view before catching the bus through to Turangi and on to Taupo (with added bonus of seeing the Jarvis's in Taupo for a drink on their way to Waitomo), then on to Hastings. I sat back, watched the views and felt happy that I had reached the end of the journey and achieved my goal. JOB DONE!!!
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11th-16th April (Day 173-178 of being away from home)
Riding the high of the last few days in Stewart Island, those who were Wellington bound said our farewells and flew from Stewart Island to Invercargill and had some time to fill in there before the connecting flight so had brunch in town after a walk around a very quiet Sunday morning inner city. Once in Wellington airport, Camille and I said farewell to Huw and Audrey as we continued to fly Auckland to finish off the sections I had on hold from last year. Was great to have Camille's company over these few days as we wandered through Auckland, enjoying views from one tree hill and discovering other coastal and harbour walkways while making our way south. The weather was so warm it felt like early January rather than mid April. The trail took us through some rural sections after the airport as well as a heavy trucking road leading up to a quarry before turning off to climb up through an area of bush before heading down to Clevedon. Transport out of Clevedon for Camille turned into a hassle with the taxi dispatcher sending a taxi to Papakura instead of Clevedon, but all worked out in the end and she headed off back to Wellington while I stayed the night at the Clevedon Hotel. I headed through the Hunua Ranges and was impressed at what a lovely section of bush this was - can honestly say that the bird life was just as busy and loud as Stewart Island and Ulva Island. I stayed in my tent in the forest for these two nights and loved the fact I felt so remote - yet still had phone coverage. From there it was the final easy walk through to Mercer where I had booked a bus to take me to Hamilton. Popped into see Podge and Sandra at Podges' Place Pub - they really look after Te Araroa walkers there and was nice to have something to eat and a drink to celebrate the end of this catch up piece before the next catch up in Taumarunui. After saying goodbye to the crew at Podge's place - went to catch the bus at the designated area in Mercer but it drove straight past me even with me waving and running after it! The bus did not stop and the driver did not get out even though I had booked a seat. Couldn't believe it, so the the only thing I could think of was to go back to Podges place to see if there was someone heading to Hamilton. Very thankful to one woman who was happy to drive me through for the cost of her petrol. Once again the kindness of strangers going out of their way is just amazing. I had booked accomodation in town so that I could met my early morning shuttle through to Taumarunui, so was very grateful to get the lift and still be able to meet all my arranged bookings. Yay!!! 5th-10th April (Day 167-172 of being away from home)
Spent the night in a cabin in one of Invercargill's campgrounds after getting back from Dunedin and was an easy drive through to the airport to drop the hire car off and then meet Audrey off the plane. She flew down from Wellington to Invercargill then we caught the plane together from there to Stewart Island. Was so good to see her and catch up on the previous months. The plane was very tiny but the flight was calm and very scenic. Stewart Island has so many little sandy bays - was expecting it to look more ruggered and rocky. Once landed it was a few minutes shuttle to the South Seas Hotel and getting sorted out for the 3 day Rakiura walk starting the next day. Really lovely afternoon having lunch at the pub, then a wander around the bay which reminded me of Marlborough Sounds before heading back to the pub again for dinner. Our walking commenced on Wednesday 5th and the weather was just superb. Would even say hot. Got to Port William Hut and enjoyed the rest of the afternoon looking out to the very calm bay before dinner. There were volunteer wardens on site too, so they had a chat about the place and mentioned that we had a chance of seeing kiwis that night if we sat on the deck quietly after dark. Once in bed though - the reality of getting up to wait for a kiwi was minimal and it then it started raining too, so definately not worth getting up to chance a viewing. The next day was a very different walking experience - rain, rain and more rain, plus mud and ... oh yes .... huge flooded pools of water to wade through. Audrey and I met a woman from the previous night who decided that she was not going through the water and tried to encourage us to turn around too, but we were keen to check it out for ourselves and found that although up to our thighs, the water was safe to cross and we could find the path by carefully stepping through the flooded bits. The last section was a flooded bridge where the water was flowing quickly but there was safety in holding the bridge sides. Got to North Arm Hut and very pleased to be warm, dry again and have hot drinks and food. Spirits in the hut were high and full of chatter with the other walkers about the adventures of the day. The final day walking on the Friday was much drier and more enjoyable on every level. The main reason it was such a magnificent day was because Huw, Dad, Camille, Carl, Paula, Sharon and Grant planned a surprise to meet Audrey and I at the end of the walk. In fact they walked into the bush to meet us, with Huw heading in first and not letting on that the others were there too until they strolled into the bush about 20 minutes later. They had been cooking up the surprise with Audrey for months while I had been away and man did they pull it off. I was absolutely gobsmacked, overwhelmed and in a state of shock seeing them, and the tears I didn't seem to have at Bluff soon surfaced!! Could not believe that they had flown all the way to Stewart Island as a surprise and it was just an amazing feeling having them all there to celebrate with me. Celebrate we did!! Champagne, party hats, streamers, oysters, beautiful meals out and lots of catching up and laughter over the next few days. A few went fishing and caught many blue cod, and a few of us went to Ulva Island to go bird spotting. All up it was a very special, memorable, treasured time that will be held dear to me for years to come. 31st March-4th April ( Day 162-166 of being away from home)
Awoke to a fantastic day in Bluff - once again a still, warm day - is this place for real? Totally altered my view of what Bluff would be like. I used the warm day to dry out all my gear and do some well needed washing. Very grateful to Alicia and Andy for opening their home to me to enjoy a leisurely morning before heading off to Dunedin. Enjoyed watching the boat activity from their house which has amazing views over Bluff out to the ocean. Before leaving Bluff I had some oysters and chips and then caught the shuttle through to the airport to pick up a hire car. The guy driving the shuttle refused to take any money from me for the trip as was impressed that I had just finished the Te Araroa trail - once again another example of amazing kiwis who have made me feel so humble and proud to live in NZ. Picked up the hire car and headed up to Dunedin to catch up with my son Thomas. It felt very strange to be driving and the feeling of getting somewhere quickly, rather than taking a whole day of walking to get to a place. Driving into Dunedin and through the student flat streets to Thomas's flat was like driving back in time for me and re-entering student territory from my past. It all felt so familiar walking into a student flat through the collection of furniture and empty bottes. I felt very welcome and at ease and slept very soundly in the flat for a couple of nights. Being back in a city, it was great to go out eating, drinking and catching up on movies. Didn't have to ask Thomas twice if he wanted to join me for some lunches/dinners out and we checked out a few good spots. Wonderful having time with him and being with family after such a long time away. Went for a few drives out to the surrounding areas of Dunedin and also to Balclutha to watch Thomas play football. Really enjoyed the feeling of not having a set place to be or a planned visit anywhere, just the relaxation of 'being'. I stayed a couple of nights in a motel too when all Thomas's flatmates returned back to the flat after mid semester break - best I didn't overstay my welcome in the flat! Headed off from Dunedin on the Monday to return to Invercargill in preparation for the Stewart Island trip. It wasn't until reaching Invercargill that I realised that I hadn't even taken any photos while in Dunedin - obviously too relaxed and at home! Wednesday 30th March - Lots of thoughts running though my mind earlier this morning and wondering if I walk two half days or keep going right through to Bluff. When I began walking I knew immediately that I was going to push through. It was only 40km to the finish line now and in many ways I felt like I could run there I was so excited. The Estuary section around Invercargill was closed due to weather damage so that meant even more road walking, but that was fine - nothing felt a problem today.
When Bluff came into view and I could see houses on it, that just spurred me on even more and in no time I was starting the more pleasant walkway up and over farmland and around the South coast of Bluff. What a view. Felt like I really was on the end of the world - and I pretty much was with Stewart Island within view too. Walking the final stretch to Sterling Point I had a grin from ear to ear. I thought I would be quite emotional, but I just felt happy and content, no tears. Alicia and Andy and their children - friends of my cousins - picked me up from Sterling Point and spoilt me with an amazing salmon dinner and bubbly to celebrate at their home in Bluff. A wonderful night and I'm very thrilled to have made it to Bluff. A fantastic feeling. Tuesday 29th March - Farewells to the walking crew this morning and made sure we got some photos together before heading off again. Beach walking was in front of us today and lots of it. Felt fantastic to be by the sea again. Has been a long time since Queen Charlotte track, so having the ocean close by felt wonderful. The views were beautiful and better than I was expecting.
Not sure if it was the steak I had last night or the sea air, but when I got to Riverton at about 2pm, I wasn't ready to stop walking. It had started to shower with rain so the others decided to stop at the campground. I wasn't sure how much further I would go but thought I'd make a start on the next beach walk anyway. Well the afternoon and early evening just got better and better weatherwise. Still feeling full of energy I just kept going up the beach and by about 8-30pm had reached the Oreti Beach settlement. Got a cabin at the campground up Dunns Road and had to pinch myself that I had come so far today. 40km on the clock and getting very excited to be nearing Bluff. Monday 28th March - Awoke to no rain today so it felt like a big improvement to yesterday from the start. Everyone headed off from the hut at their own pace and we said our farewells.
The track started off much better than yesterday too and led down to a forest road before entering the bush again. Felt like real NZ bush again too as there were lots of punga trees and very lush. The track followed a water race and also involved crossing the water race / trench many times on well placed treelogs or boards. Some a bit too slippery looking so extra climbing up and over fallen trees or muddy banks was needed. Got more challenging as the day progressed. Lots of old machinery along the was too. The track notes said the trail came out to the Big Hilly Track, but the orange markers actually take you out to a dairy farm and direct you along Ward Road. When walking out of the farm the owners were very excited to see another Te Araroa walker and are thinking of getting a guest book set up by their gate for us to write in. Got to the Colac Bay Tavern and camp ground and was met out front by Natalie and Andrea. Nice welcome, nice spot. Checked into a cabin room and had a steak dinner and a couple of wines - great end to a challenging section. Sunday 27th March - Today was a mission of a day that started off so pleasant and ended up being one of my hardest days on the trail.
After packing up from my lovely camping spot on the beginning of the forest I headed up the 4 wheel drive track very easily. About a half hour later Erin caught me up and said she had a great night in Otautau with a kiwi family. We walked together for a bit then I left her to her food break and I started up the next section of the track. From here it was mud, boggy track and more mud. Tough going and then more challenging up on the hilltops with the weather closing in, low mist and cold wind. Pure slog at the end just to get to the hut. Was a joy to smell smoke at the top of the final steep muddy descent as it meant someone was already at the hut with a fire going. Got to the hut and it was Andrea, Mario and Natalie there - horray - and also a spare last bunk. Martin's Hut is a very old and basic hut but it felt like a Hilton hotel tonight. So pleased to be warm by the fire and eating dinner with friendly company. Saturday 26th March - Felt recharged and ready to go after a night in a real bed and good food. Dave dropped us back to where he picked us up yesterday and Erin and I headed off.
I loved the next stretch of walk and took my time through the next forest and farm section enjoying the views back over the country side and to the small collection of houses over Ohai way. Said farewell to Erin and hopefully we catch up again nearing Bluff. The cell phone and internet coverage is the best I've found in the South Island outside of the bigger towns so spent lunchtime and other breaks catching up on the blog and general catchups with home. Decided I would keep going to the beginning of the Longwood forest section instead of going out to Otautau as I have plenty of food again after the 4 Square stop yesterday. Loved the farmland and surroundings on the way and is reminding me of a mixture of the Waikato and Martinborough. Got to the Longwood forest up Merrivale Rd about 8pm after 30km of walking so am very happy with that. Pitched the tent and did a bit more on the blog. All up to date now. Friday 25th March - Awoke to a clear but cold morning. Not in a rush to get on the track as not such a long day to the end of the section today. Once the sun came over the hill it helped warm up the fingers to be able to pack up the tent and move on.
I headed off on the next farm section which included crossing a bridge with a caution sign that made me laugh as it was one of the most stable things I had walked across. Met Erin again later in the day at lunch time after a bit of steep gravel road walking. We walked together the rest of the day which ended up being easy walking down the farm road and out to the road to Ohai. Dave from Taylor's Lodge came and picked us up from that junction and very kindly also took us on further to the Nightcaps 4 Square so we could top up food supplies. Being Good Friday we couldn't get wine at the shop so Dave sorted us out a bottle of wine too. Yay! Taylor's Lodge is the old pub building in Ohai that now is the home of Dave and his wife. It is no longer a pub but they do accomodate Te Araroa walkers and gave us full use of their kitchen as well as eggs from their hens. A great easy going night and very hospitable people. A comfy bed and a great nights sleep. |